Thursday, July 30, 2009

I am still afloat!

Four days into my class, I am ok, alive, alert, etc. Level 3 was a good choice for me - I am at the right level with my Greek and I understand everything going on. I've actually already learned some of the stuff we're doing, but it's good review, helps me to cement things in my brain, and 4 straight hours of Greek is only going to help me! I just need to be more intentional about speaking it when I'm out and about.

My brain is fine, but it takes up about 5.5-6 hours of my day including travel, so I haven't had time for much else once you add meetings and other work stuff. The past few days I have left my house between 7 and 8:30 am and not been home for more than 10 minutes until 10 or 11 at night. So I'm tired, but it's from everything, not just the Greek classes. :) Tonight I'll be at outreach until 2am, then I have to get up at 7:30am to pick up some visitors, so I am not expecting top performances from myself in class tomorrow!

Sunday, July 26, 2009

Oh my painted aunt.

I have no idea what that means, but Sharone says it all the time, so it must be witty and intelligent. She also makes margarita flavored cupcakes, and I can't have any of them (that whole being on the wrong continent thing).

Obligatory photo to keep the reader interested:So, I have nothing to say, except that my Greek intensive course starts in the morning and I hope it doesn't make me cry. I think I'll be ok. With Voula I have already completed the whole book that this school uses, so I'm entering into Level 3, which covers the last 1/3 of the book. It also focuses on conversation and there are class presentations (no anxiety here, no, none at all). The conversation bit is what I need; my head is full of grammar yet I can't speak very well. For the next three weeks my brain will probably be mush and there will be lots of naps. I will get used to it, and then it will be over. :)

One of the closest friends I have made since coming here is leaving Greece in a week, that is sad. A hard part about living overseas, I think. People come and go; it's not every day you find those ones that you can connect with on lots of levels and be yourself and have fun at the same time. Still looking to add to my repertoire. :)

Thursday, July 23, 2009

A day in the life...

Supposedly things are supposed to slow down here in the summer - yeah right! :) Here is a sample of how the day gets so filled up of late...this is what I did on Monday:

9:00am: Reading, study, things around the house

11:00am - 1:00pm: Greek lesson

1:00pm: Lunch with my Greek teacher and her daughters

2:00-4:00pm: Lydia Today weekly meeting

4:30-6:30pm: Coffee with some new ministry interns

6:30pm: Breathe, eat, etc!

8:00-9:45pm: Nea Zoi weekly meeting

10:00pm-2:00am: Outreach on the streets

Whew! Today looks similar, with a couple hours at home this morning catching up on work emails and papers, a different selection of meetings, and a quick trip to the gym. Thankfully I enjoy most of what I do each day and the people I spend my time with!

Next Monday begins my intensive three week Greek course - 4 hours every morning!! I expect to be magically fluent in Greek when this is finished! :) It will be tough for a few days when we have outreach the night before, but that will only happen twice until we stop for August. Then I'll be able to focus on the class exclusively (and I think my brain will need it!). I'm actually looking forward to it, and it will be a good way to spend the days when everyone is out of town during this "vacation" month!

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

sunset swims

I'm not sure what I would do if my life and my view of Greece consisted of the streets I work on. I'm not sure how long I could be here, or if I would still have my sanity. I can't imagine not being able to have some sort of escape. Life has such weird contrasts in it right now: prostitution, drug addicts, international inner city ghetto things, & human trafficking on one hand. Beach, cafes, and the semi-occasional island day trip on the other hand. Both are indisputably Greece, but thankfully I have both. I think I would lose my mind (in more ways than one) in this work without swimming and sun.

Winter...not quite as fun.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

working the streets.

This girl is now a regular at our table. Saturday night she was "evangelizing" to her coworkers, the other girls. Tonight she sat for awhile, quieter. As one of our team began chatting casually, she opened up a bit more, sharing about her family in Nigeria, her "mommy" (the trafficker), and being treated like a slave.

There is this street sweeper that just drives up and down the street all night long while we are there. We think he is OCD; how many times do you need to sweep the same street in one night? Tonight there was a street sweeper collision. It must be a really engrossing job; two ran right into each other. That was after the girls took off their shoes and began beating on, screaming at, and throwing things at a passing car that held a guy with a video camera.

Never a dull moment.

Saturday, July 18, 2009

I like riding bikes

Especially to the beach, and on islands.
Yay.

Friday, July 17, 2009

...and then some nights,

...random gangs of violent men on motorcycles run the girls off into hiding and there is no one to talk to!

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

proselytizing prostitute

(Usually I don't use the word "prostitute" because I don't like what it connotes about a woman who may not have chosen to be where she is. Most of these particular girls know what they are getting into when they come to Greece, although it's clearly not their first choice for income.)

Monday night we started a new kind of outreach with Nea Zoi. It's kind of a summer experiment - usually we go to the girls; this month we are seeing if they will come to us. We are setting up a table several nights (early morning would be more accurate!) a week in the middle of the Nigerian girls' track, with our usual tea and cookies and information, sending out little envoys to entice them over, and waiting. Monday night was the first night - 12 girls came!

I was down the street talking with some of the girls, so I missed the conversations with the ones who actually came to the table. But one of the girls began telling the team about how she was a "born again" Christian and evangelized to the men that came around. She asks each customer if he is born again; if not, she informs him that he should be. If he is married, look out! He gets an earful that he should not be here, it is a grave sin, and he should return to his family immediately.

She shared that she knows she has backslidden, but wasn't willing to talk about her faith any further. Finally, rather than engage in a deeper discussion about faith and evangelism (or whatever you want to call what she is doing!), she literally covered her ears and ran from the table. And that was that.

The conversation induced a few inward cringes, of course. There's a bit of disparity in word and deed there! Overall, though, we were encouraged by the night, by the 12 girls who were brave enough to approach our table. We can look for that girl tomorrow night and see if she'll sit a bit longer this time. And we can keep talking to the 50 or 60 other girls down the street, whether or not they come to our station for some iced tea.

Sunday, July 12, 2009

happy birthday to me

Yesterday was a big birthday, ending in a zero (I know, you're shocked, I'm 20!?! I don't look a day past 17.) so I was obligated to take advantage of my current geographical location (you know, Greece) and celebrate mediterranean style. :)

Went back to my favorite of the close day-trip distance islands, Agistri, and spent the day on the beach. I LOVE swimming here - it's so different from California because the water is so warm, there are no waves, and there's a bit more salt so you can just float and float. (We passed on the nudie beach this time.) :)

A little Irish pub action and some chocolate souffle upon returning to Athens, and it was a good birthday. I missed home and family and friends a bit this week, but it ended up being a pretty nice weekend, christening a new decade. :)

Friday, July 10, 2009

It's 3am

and I'm just back from outreach. There are so many Nigerian girls out right now, and it's so hard to keep them straight. Many of the same name (think "Gift" and "Blessing" and "Joy"), changing hairstyles (braids, hats, colors) and makeup (red accented eyebrows, bright green shadow, thick foundation) ... GAH! I recognize many faces, but rarely remember the name that goes along with it. It's ok, they're forgiving. As long as you have iced tea and cookies. :)

I've really only been back on this late night hotel route for three weeks (the other night I go is earlier), but tonight I was pleasantly surprised to be on the receiving end of several hugs and "there's my friend!" calls and waves. It doesn't take much to establish some semblance of consistency in these girls' lives. It gives me hope for our summer outreach program that starts next week, where we'll have a table right on their street several nights a week.

I really love the two nights a week I get to spend on these streets. I don't feel that way as I'm walking there; through the crappiest part of Athens, past people shooting up, hoards of refugee men milling about and garbage and things dripping on you and police and tonight a big demonstration in Omonia square ... not exactly the place I want to be for the night. But after we pray and get back out there, engaging with these beautiful girls, and especially on nights when they are less bothered by the police and more chatty, I love it. Every time. Sometimes it's a good long conversation, sometimes you're shut down at "hello." Sometimes it's encouraging, sometimes it's depressing. But I love it.

Speaking of police...read my ministry blog about our huge trafficking ring bust this week.

Thursday, July 09, 2009

Transformation Vacation

I'm trying to figure out the next visa trip (this is getting old, fast), and was looking at the Black Sea Coast in Bulgaria. It's close, cheapish, there's a train, and I've heard good things. (By the way, Sharone, since you started me on this, do you have any suggestions for WHERE? All the options are mildly overwhelming to someone who doesn't know a thing about the place.)

Came across a website called Bulgaria Vacation. Ok, good start. But I started reading: "Sun, Fun & Plastic Surgery - Bulgaria" ... hmm.

Then: "A growing number of people today prefer to have plastic surgery procedures at facilities far from their homes. They are seeking out 'destination' locations where they can wrap a little shopping and sightseeing around their recovery time. BULGARIA Vacation Plastic Surgery, introduces a 'transformation vacation' to help jump-start the recovery process after they undergo plastic surgery in Bulgaria."

So I guess this isn't quite what I'm looking for... On the other hand, I wonder if anyone would notice if I came back looking a little different??

Tuesday, July 07, 2009

summer

rooftop cinema in Plaka (Athens)

Friday, July 03, 2009

rainy day ramblings

Ok, it was just hot and sticky and sunny when I walked home from the market with heavy bags 20 minutes ago (sweating all the way), but the skies just opened up with this downpour that we have going on right now. I love it - cleaning the sticky, heavy air that has been building up. I opened my windows for a blast of cool rainy breeze and got hot wet dirty air instead. Yesss.

Anyway. Outreach last night. I wrote a little bit here about the police sweeps we've been having in Athens. We've been finding the girls out a lot later now, and late last week when we hit the streets expecting them to be empty we found multitudes of them and were overwhelmed. Last night we were a bit more prepared. They work around 11pm to 5am every day. I talked with a girl from Nigeria who has been here for a month only. I introduced myself, poured her some iced tea, and she said, "So, what's up?!" We chatted for about 20 minutes - it was great. Usually they are closed off and when they do feel like talking, you are still competing with the men walking and driving by checking them out, and all their other friends that are there with them. The police had just come by, so the girls were just starting to trickle out from doorways and back alleys again and we had some time to chat before the carloads of men started coming by again. Happy for the contact, sad for her dead-end circumstances and unhappiness with what she has found herself doing in Greece.

I realized last night as I watched a guy shoot up near Omonia that not only can I tell you where to get the best souvlaki in town, but I can point out the best places for drugs and sex in Athens as well. Hopefully the first balances out the latter...!

I also have realized that this has not negatively affected my view of men (thankfully), except for those we actually see interacting with the girls. Those ones I look down on severely, and don't mind letting them know it when they try and talk to me. That I need to work on.

One other strange thing - I have lived in my apartment for over two months now and I still wake up several times a week in the middle of the night with no idea where I am or how I got there (and no - not a result of drinking). The best was when I thought I was in London with a conference or tour group, forgot to adjust my clock for the time change, and had no idea what time or where our group was meeting in the morning. The other night I woke up and thought I was someplace else, with other friends sleeping in the same room. What in the world is wrong with me?! If this says anything about the quality of sleep I am getting, it would go a long way in explaining why I am so tired all the time (as would my lack of regular sleep schedule). :)

The rain is over now and it is sunny again. You'd never know we just had a torrential downpour except for the now-trecherously slippery uneven marble sidewalks that will be claiming a number of tourists (and locals) in the next hour or so.

Thursday, July 02, 2009

oh yes we did...



us + 40,000 of our closest friends.......and SAKIS!!!!

A few weeks ago, Britt spied a big, sweaty Sakis Rouvas poster in the metro with her birth date on it. From that moment she knew she had to go to this concert, and she couldn't be dissuaded. :) It was in the ancient marble Olympic Stadium, Kallimarmaro, pretty cheap, and it ended up being so much fun! He is a great performer, one of the most popular in Greece. Our affections have changed from making fun to thinking he's not so bad. :) I wouldn't buy an album or anything, but I would have to admit now that I actually kind of like Sakis. [Ok, so we still did poke a bit of fun at dance moves and one who takes himself so seriously...oh, and at the women screaming all around us...and maybe at the awful backup dancers...but all in all, it was great!] And what a cool location for a concert! Good call, Britt, for your great birthday wish.Notice the gender of all the fans around us :)
He did a little tribute to MJ ("Billie Jean") and threw in several old school rock songs, as well as plenty of his own - to which the ENTIRE audience sang along. The fans were pretty diverse actually - of course you have your abundance of teenage girls, but there were also women in their 30s and 40s who grew up with Sakis, and plenty of men too, who I suppose really love their wives/girlfriends or else just really love Sakis (if you know what I mean)...(What a rock star.)

And don't you know I am just KICKING myself for not being closer to the stage...this could have been me, could have been my hand reaching out to try and touch him, could have been my blood-curdling screams:

Sunday, June 28, 2009

and a day and a half in Corfu, etc.

Corfu is a Greek island about two miles from mainland Albania & Greece. It's a large island, very green, and usually a big tourist destination. Tourism has suffered a lot this year because of the economy, so it wasn't as busy as normal. We re-entered Greece through Corfu with a bunch of tourists on a boat. :) Nicole has friends there as a result of her time in Albania (from the occasional weekend in Corfu) so again we got good treatment, cheap lodgings, and really fun people to hang out with. It was Saturday night when we arrived, so we had the whole of Sunday to explore and relax before heading back to Athens Monday morning.

It has been nice being back home in Athens this week...the weather has been really nice and I have been doing lots of fun things with friends in the off time - outdoor movie theater, coffee, beach, etc. I went to my first Nea Zoi staff meeting last week, and I'm looking forward to more involvement with them (outreaches, etc.), and there are a couple others I'm hopeful to begin working with. We'll see. I also just got approval to enroll in a three week intensive/immersion Greek language course in July/August. It's here in Athens and it will be 4 hours a day of class/instruction/discussion, etc. I'll enter into level 3, that's kind of exciting for me. :) My brain sort of already hurts in anticipation, but I am looking forward to and hopeful for the improvement with my language. [I hope I used enough slashes in this paragraph for you.]

Ok, here are some pictures from Corfu:








Thursday, June 25, 2009

more from saranda...

So, it's not your average tourist destination, but these parts of Albania are really beautiful and I think tourism is on the rise. The second day we were there a huge boatload of (mostly European) tourists came over from Corfu for the day, and they loved it. Tell your friends! :)

About 40 minutes outside Saranda is Butrint, a national park (and a UNESCO world heritage site - woo!) that is a city dating to the 8th century BC. I was fully alert and feeling great after sitting upright on a bus for 9 hours the previous night through windy mountain roads (ha ha).
Nice views from the site and the castle on the hill above.Another friend of Nicole's met us for lunch by the sea, a FABULOUS fish meal. The fish we ate is really expensive in Greece, so we enjoyed it that much more - caught hours before in the sea we were looking at, and SO CHEAP. Fish, mussels, calamari, etc. The next day we tried spaghetti (Rocco, being Italian, knew of this great pasta place) made with the black ink from squid. Interesting!
The next day we drove out to Ksamil to swim. They brought the sand here to make this beach. There are three small islands that you can swim between, all gorgeous (though obviously not camera-friendly). It was wonderful and the weather was great. This is where my paddle-boat moment took place. :) Rocco and I got by ok, with his Italian and my Spanish, as we paddled out to the farthest island, avoiding the currents that he said would take us straight to Italy. (Would that really be so bad?)
Saturday afternoon we caught the ferry (barely - they had to hold the boat for us as we were obviously having too much fun to be bothered with being there on time) to Corfu...

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Agioi Saranda (40 Saints)

It was time to exit again, and Albania is one of the closest and cheapest non-EU destinations. I went with two friends, one of whom lived in Albania for five years, so she arranged most of the trip, which included a stop-over in Corfu (more on that later). It was such a wonderful weekend, minus the 9 hour overnight bus ride...we didn't want to come back to Athens. :(
Saranda is a small city right on the sea across from the Greek island Corfu. Nicole lived there for two years (after three years in the capital Tirana), so we spent lots of time seeing friends of hers for coffee and seeing what there is to see outside the town. It was interesting visiting Albania knowing the issues between Greeks and Albanians (largely based on experiences with Albanian immigrants in Greece), and it was fun to find warm, welcoming, friendly people - who love foreigners! That is always a welcome change. :) Since the fall of Communism in the '90s, Saranda has tried to become a tourist destination, with loads of hotels popping up along the coast that have yet to see much business.
Nicole was there when the waves of Kosovo refugees came in 1999. 4000 people came to this town, farther south than they wanted to come and too close for comfort to Greece, but there were so many people that the other cities were overwhelmed. They lived in bombed out hotels and other destroyed buildings (left over from the war in '97 that are still there today). Along with a handful of missionaries, foreign aid workers, Nic and a few locals, about 20 people total, worked with this population during their stay in Saranda.

Rocco (see previous post!) is an Italian there who works with the Catholic nuns running a center and school for kids. He has a car, so we spent most of our time with him. :) We visited the beautiful center where he works (the Catholic church is not short on funds!) and talked with the head nun there.

As our conversations usually do, this one turned to trafficking, which is an enormous problem in Albania. Not only are the girls lured away -- there are no young women in Saranda; they all leave for better-paying jobs elsewhere that can often turn into trafficking situations -- but the young men are also easily tempted into the life of the traffickER. With so few work opportunities in this poor country, the ease of smuggling women across the borders and the lucrative paycheck that comes is very alluring. As we see with women who have spent any time at all in the industry, the money becomes addicting for the men as well.

Ok, too long, more later. :)

Monday, June 22, 2009

I had a moment...

Ksamil, outside Saranda, Albania

Do you ever have those moments where you suddenly take an outsider's look at your current circumstances and are struck by the hilarity and/or unlikeliness and/or strangeness of it all?

Saturday afternoon, around 1:00 pm (who knows really) ...
I found myself on a dolphin-shaped paddle boat ...
on the sea ...
in Albania ...
with a hairy Italian man in a speedo ...
named Rocco ...
who spoke no English.

Ha! I had to laugh. :)

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

gotta love it...

...when you walk through your city's center and suddenly your eyes are stinging and you are having mild choking sensations from residual tear gas.
...when you step outside and the stale hot "breeze" that hits you smells like days-old body odor.
...when you know you're in your own neighborhood because you can hear the strange little old man who wanders the streets shouting barely intelligible obscenities in Greek.
...when the vegetable man parks his truck right outside your window with his loudspeaker announcing his daily selection.
...when people's ideas of "personal space" do not conform to your own...must take care in walking as sudden stops could result in being plowed over by the person who is walking 2 inches behind you.
...when you pass 8 couples making out in the street and on benches in the three minute walk between your metro stop and your house.
...that it's perfectly acceptable to make comments about one's weight and ask how much they pay for their apartment or how much they get paid.
...when cigarette smoke doesn't even faze you anymore because you're so used to everyone smoking in cafes, restaurants, taxis, etc.
...that you have to plan ahead when you are going to shower, because the water heater must be turned on 20-30 minutes in advance.

But also...
...I can hop a ferry and be on a beautiful Greek island in an hour or two.
...I walk past the Acropolis every day.
...I live in a neighborhood with innumerable cafes and coffee shops and local artists who set up stands and sell their homemade stuff (awesome jewelry, anyone?) along the wide pedestrian street that overlooks aforementioned Acropolis.
...I can buy fresh, delicious fruits and vegetables from my local laiki (street market) every week.
...My adopted country is known for CHEESE...and what is better than cheese?! (Besides chocolate, but I also live in Europe and can find excellent samples of this as well!)
...It's never too late for a coffee or a drink in the city that doesn't sleep until 2 or 3 am (and that's just on weeknights).
...The beach. The ocean. Floating along under the hot sun. Maaaarvelous.
...My darling apartment manager doesn't speak a lick of English but loves me to death, chatting at me happily, saying I'm cute, making sure I'm ok, as I smile and nod ("I have no idea what you're saying...")
...I can run!
...New friends.

It all evens out.

Monday, June 15, 2009

oh, this makes me laugh so hard

Smooth Criminal, Saudi style :)